One Reader Shares His Memory of World’s Best
Gumbo and How to Recreate It
Foolproof Food Days are a lot of fun on my site.
They expose my readers to new ways of thinking about and preparing the
classics, so when a self-described “Southerner” and fan of mine (he shall be
known here as Jon A.) offered to share his gumbo recipe, I looked forward to
retelling the charming story behind it. This version of gumbo is based on Jon’s
trip to New Orleans, roughly 1 year after Hurricane Katrina. There had been a
wedding and the groomsman’s family—who lived in the Metairie district within
ear shot of the trolley—was still having a great deal of problems inside the
house. Parts of the city were still without electricity, and the kitchen had flooded
so badly, that the wedding party chose to eat outside. The gumbo was prepared
on a grill, right next to the family’s pool. Today’s Foolproof Gumbo
recipe is written for the kitchen stovetop; however, it’s a carbon copy,
ingredients wise, of everything that this wedding party enjoyed on a crisp cool
night in 2006.
With Lent on the Way, This Dish is Perhaps the
Most Perfect Use of Leftovers
For many home cooks, gumbo is a way to get rid
of leftovers, and this recipe works well using that same notion; this version
has the same trinity of meats that the best New Orleans style gumbo has:
Andouille sausage, chicken and crab, but frequently uses leftover roast chicken
in the fridge, or tasty remnants of last night’s crab boil. If those
ingredients aren’t around, and the household still has a hankering for
wedding-party gumbo, why then canned crab and chicken are used, but give any
chef his druthers and it’s fresh all the way.
There’s always something fun to learn when
you’re cooking, and in the case of this Foolproof Food story, the lesson
learned was that coriander is the secret ingredient in recreating the
gumbo from Metairie, Louisa, circa 2006. And that makes sense when you think
about it. Coriander is mentioned in the ingredients on crab boil kits, so consider
that next time you’re wondering what dash of spice works the best on slow
simmering seafood dishes. As to seasoning, the original gumbos used an extract
from sassafras leaves that give the taste that recognizable fire; you can
recollect that fusion of flavor—sassafras, cayenne pepper and caramelized
onions with Tony Cachere’s Original Creole Seasoning.
Happy
Mardi Gras, Everyone!
I’m told that this Foolproof Gumbo was a hit on
the night it was served and photographed on the eve of Mardi Gras weekend in
New Orleans. I understand that the
family enjoyed it around a fire-lit bracero on an unseasonably cold night—even
for February!
Have a recipe you’d like to share? Send it to me, and we’ll chat about its background and inspiration and do a Foolproof Food post that encourages our tight-knit community of home chefs to give it a try. Thanks for reading!
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